VISITING THE ISLAND
Smuttynose and Malaga Islands are privately owned, and not public property, however, the owners welcome you to enjoy the scenic beauty and historic intrigue of these Islands In The Sea! We ask only that you respect the property, and remove your trash…leaving the islands in their natural and unadorned state, for others to enjoy.
HISTORIC SITES TO EXPLORE
We hope that you enjoy the experience of walking the island trails. These islands are a world away from our often hectic mainland existence. Therefore, may your footsteps be guided by the light eternal, just as the mariners of the Isles of Shoals were once, and still are today, guided by the protective beacon of light on White Island.
Many of the historic sites on Smuttynose island, noted below, are marked by green signs with white letters. Maps are provided at the informational kiosk on the island. The trail is easy to follow, but allow a couple of hours, and be wary of the poison ivy!
****************************************************************************************
Site # 1: SITE OF MID-OCEAN HOUSE
Originally built by the Haleys, this small hotel was restored and operated as a inn by Thomas and Eliza Laighton in 1846, under the office name of the MID OCEAN HOUSE OF ENTERTAINMENT. The Laighton's numerous guests included such dignitaries as Nathaniel Hawthorne, Richard Henry Dana, Caleb Cushing, Governor John Page, Levi Woodbury and US Senator Franklin Pierce, Surrounding the in were large porches, a garden, trees and a bowling green. Unfortunately the Mid Ocean House was destroyed by fire in 1911. However, her foundation is being gradually excavated by Smuttynose Steward volunteers, and her original size and shape will soon be revealed. Now, just where did they bowl?
Site # 2: AUNT ROZZIE'S COTTAGE, nowadays called GULL COTTAGE
GULL COTTAGE was built by Miss Rosamond Thaxter of Kittery Point, granddaughter of the famous poetess of Appledore, Celia Thaxter. AUNT ROZZIE purchased an undivided half of the island in 1951 from the Forbes family of Kittery. It wasn't long before the cottage was completed by Frances Raynes, and Aunt Rozzie's guests began voyaging to the island on her boat "Kit", with commander Lester Raynes as skipper. Her friends were always welcome to stay in her cottage, even if she wasn't in residence. Throughout the 1960's the cottage was kept stocked with food and supplies for stranded sailors. As long as she lived, the American flag was only allowed to fly over the cottage when Aunt Rozzie was in residence. She died in 1989, and her interest in the island passed to her nephews Nate and Nicholas H
Site # 3: HALEY FAMILY GRAVEYARD
The cemetery is the resting place for the Haley family and their illustrious leader, Capt. Samuel Haley, who died in the year 1811 at age 84. From a testimonial we learn that...
"HE WAS A MAN OF GREAT INGENUITY, INDUSTRY, HONOR AND HONESTY, TRUE TO THIS COUNTRY & A MAN WHO DID A GREAT PUBLIC GOOD IN BUILDING A DOCK & RECEIVING INTO HIS ENCLOSURE MANY A POOR DISTRESSED SEAMAN & FISHERMAN IN DISTRESS OF WEATHER".
Site # 4: STONE CAIRN
Whose rough and callused hands gathered and fashioned this stone marker or "cairn" remains a mystery. Even its purpose is not clear. It could have been a navigation marker, land boundary, site of religious significance to a much earlier population, or even the location of a grave. What do you think?
Site # 5: MAREN'S ROCK
Without a doubt, the most famous rock on the island is MAREN'S ROCK. It was during the long frigid hours, from 1:30 to 7:30am on the 6th of March 1873, accordingly to her testimony in court, that Maren Hontvent and her dog Ringe huddled in terror under the shelter of the rock, praying they would not be discovered by the murderer. With bloddy axe in hand, Wagner was portrayed as having cris-crossed the island several times in hopes of dispatching the only witness to this heinous crime, but she was not to be found. As dawn arrived, Maren crawled slowly from her hiding place, stumbling in bare frozen feet over the icy rocks. Her frantic shouting and waving attracted the attention of Jorge Isgebretson, who was working on Hog (Appledore) Island. Celia Thaxter's vivid account relates: "He sees the poor little figure waving her arms, takes his dory and paddled over. With amazement he recognizes Maren in her nightdress, with bare feet and streaming hair, with a cruel bruise upon her face, with wild eyes, distracted, half senseless with cold and terror." He cries, 'Maren, Maren, who has done this? What is it, Who is it'?...and her only answer is 'Louis, Louis, Louis', as he takes her on board his boat and rows home with her as fast as he can, brining her to the warmth and care of his family on Hog." Maren's court testimony ultimately sent Louis Wagner to his death on the gallows...while he constantly proclaimed his innocence.
We hope that you enjoy the experience of walking the island trails. These islands are a world away from our often hectic mainland existence. Therefore, may your footsteps be guided by the light eternal, just as the mariners of the Isles of Shoals were once, and still are today, guided by the protective beacon of light on White Island.
Many of the historic sites on Smuttynose island, noted below, are marked by green signs with white letters. Maps are provided at the informational kiosk on the island. The trail is easy to follow, but allow a couple of hours, and be wary of the poison ivy!
****************************************************************************************
Site # 1: SITE OF MID-OCEAN HOUSE
Originally built by the Haleys, this small hotel was restored and operated as a inn by Thomas and Eliza Laighton in 1846, under the office name of the MID OCEAN HOUSE OF ENTERTAINMENT. The Laighton's numerous guests included such dignitaries as Nathaniel Hawthorne, Richard Henry Dana, Caleb Cushing, Governor John Page, Levi Woodbury and US Senator Franklin Pierce, Surrounding the in were large porches, a garden, trees and a bowling green. Unfortunately the Mid Ocean House was destroyed by fire in 1911. However, her foundation is being gradually excavated by Smuttynose Steward volunteers, and her original size and shape will soon be revealed. Now, just where did they bowl?
Site # 2: AUNT ROZZIE'S COTTAGE, nowadays called GULL COTTAGE
GULL COTTAGE was built by Miss Rosamond Thaxter of Kittery Point, granddaughter of the famous poetess of Appledore, Celia Thaxter. AUNT ROZZIE purchased an undivided half of the island in 1951 from the Forbes family of Kittery. It wasn't long before the cottage was completed by Frances Raynes, and Aunt Rozzie's guests began voyaging to the island on her boat "Kit", with commander Lester Raynes as skipper. Her friends were always welcome to stay in her cottage, even if she wasn't in residence. Throughout the 1960's the cottage was kept stocked with food and supplies for stranded sailors. As long as she lived, the American flag was only allowed to fly over the cottage when Aunt Rozzie was in residence. She died in 1989, and her interest in the island passed to her nephews Nate and Nicholas H
Site # 3: HALEY FAMILY GRAVEYARD
The cemetery is the resting place for the Haley family and their illustrious leader, Capt. Samuel Haley, who died in the year 1811 at age 84. From a testimonial we learn that...
"HE WAS A MAN OF GREAT INGENUITY, INDUSTRY, HONOR AND HONESTY, TRUE TO THIS COUNTRY & A MAN WHO DID A GREAT PUBLIC GOOD IN BUILDING A DOCK & RECEIVING INTO HIS ENCLOSURE MANY A POOR DISTRESSED SEAMAN & FISHERMAN IN DISTRESS OF WEATHER".
Site # 4: STONE CAIRN
Whose rough and callused hands gathered and fashioned this stone marker or "cairn" remains a mystery. Even its purpose is not clear. It could have been a navigation marker, land boundary, site of religious significance to a much earlier population, or even the location of a grave. What do you think?
Site # 5: MAREN'S ROCK
Without a doubt, the most famous rock on the island is MAREN'S ROCK. It was during the long frigid hours, from 1:30 to 7:30am on the 6th of March 1873, accordingly to her testimony in court, that Maren Hontvent and her dog Ringe huddled in terror under the shelter of the rock, praying they would not be discovered by the murderer. With bloddy axe in hand, Wagner was portrayed as having cris-crossed the island several times in hopes of dispatching the only witness to this heinous crime, but she was not to be found. As dawn arrived, Maren crawled slowly from her hiding place, stumbling in bare frozen feet over the icy rocks. Her frantic shouting and waving attracted the attention of Jorge Isgebretson, who was working on Hog (Appledore) Island. Celia Thaxter's vivid account relates: "He sees the poor little figure waving her arms, takes his dory and paddled over. With amazement he recognizes Maren in her nightdress, with bare feet and streaming hair, with a cruel bruise upon her face, with wild eyes, distracted, half senseless with cold and terror." He cries, 'Maren, Maren, who has done this? What is it, Who is it'?...and her only answer is 'Louis, Louis, Louis', as he takes her on board his boat and rows home with her as fast as he can, brining her to the warmth and care of his family on Hog." Maren's court testimony ultimately sent Louis Wagner to his death on the gallows...while he constantly proclaimed his innocence.
Site # 6: HALEY COTTAGE
Considered to be one of the oldest houses in Maine, the HALEY HOUSE was probably built in the mid-18th century. Over the years it was alternately well maintained, and let fall into ruin. Turn-of-the-century photographs show it in various states of repair, and one taken after the devastating 1936 New England hurricane, shows the the entire roof missing! Although Aunt Rozzie completed some renovations, the one and a half story wooden frame dwelling underwent an extensive historical restoration by John C. MacKenzie of Brewster MA in the early 1990's. The house is five bays wide across the front, and is typical of "Cape Cod" houses that formerly existed on the islands. Just before the Revolutionary War, some of these houses were barged to the mainland, where historian John Bardwell identified a few in the York area.
Due to the dedicated efforts of Abbott Cummings and Mrs. calvin Hosmer of the Society For The Preservation Of New England Antiques, the building was declared a National Historic Landmark. This house was occupied by Capt, Haley, his wife and two sons for over 40 years. Thomas Laighton moved his family into the house and lived in it from 1841 to 1843, while getting his hotel business established. His daughter Celia offers a description of the house in that era: "The old square house which (Capt. Haley) built upon his island, and which still stands, had long ago, a broad balcony running the whole length of the house beneath the second story windows. This being in a ruinous condition, I never dared venture out upon it; but a large, square lookout, with a stout railing, which he built on the top of the house, remained till within a few years, and I found it in a charming place to linger in on still days, and watch the sky and the sea and the vessels, and the play of color over the bright face of the world". It was from an upper window of the northeast side of this house that Capt. Haley kept a lighted candle to guide seamen "in distress of weather". This was at least 50 years before the lighthouse was built on White Island, writes Celia Thaxter. It was toward the light of that candle on the night of January 14, 1813, that eight soaked and frozen sailors from the wreck of the Conception, dragged themselves painfully and helplessly through huge snowdrifts. Unaware of the disaster that stormy night, Capt. Haley discovered their bodies the following morning. Not one seaman made it to that beacon of life, for all perished.
Considered to be one of the oldest houses in Maine, the HALEY HOUSE was probably built in the mid-18th century. Over the years it was alternately well maintained, and let fall into ruin. Turn-of-the-century photographs show it in various states of repair, and one taken after the devastating 1936 New England hurricane, shows the the entire roof missing! Although Aunt Rozzie completed some renovations, the one and a half story wooden frame dwelling underwent an extensive historical restoration by John C. MacKenzie of Brewster MA in the early 1990's. The house is five bays wide across the front, and is typical of "Cape Cod" houses that formerly existed on the islands. Just before the Revolutionary War, some of these houses were barged to the mainland, where historian John Bardwell identified a few in the York area.
Due to the dedicated efforts of Abbott Cummings and Mrs. calvin Hosmer of the Society For The Preservation Of New England Antiques, the building was declared a National Historic Landmark. This house was occupied by Capt, Haley, his wife and two sons for over 40 years. Thomas Laighton moved his family into the house and lived in it from 1841 to 1843, while getting his hotel business established. His daughter Celia offers a description of the house in that era: "The old square house which (Capt. Haley) built upon his island, and which still stands, had long ago, a broad balcony running the whole length of the house beneath the second story windows. This being in a ruinous condition, I never dared venture out upon it; but a large, square lookout, with a stout railing, which he built on the top of the house, remained till within a few years, and I found it in a charming place to linger in on still days, and watch the sky and the sea and the vessels, and the play of color over the bright face of the world". It was from an upper window of the northeast side of this house that Capt. Haley kept a lighted candle to guide seamen "in distress of weather". This was at least 50 years before the lighthouse was built on White Island, writes Celia Thaxter. It was toward the light of that candle on the night of January 14, 1813, that eight soaked and frozen sailors from the wreck of the Conception, dragged themselves painfully and helplessly through huge snowdrifts. Unaware of the disaster that stormy night, Capt. Haley discovered their bodies the following morning. Not one seaman made it to that beacon of life, for all perished.
Site # 7: VILLAGE WELL
This hand-dug well served the inhabitants of Smuttynose Island with fresh drinking and cooking water for several generations. Possibly in use sine the mid-1500's, the well became famous as the place where the convicted killer, Louis Wagner, supposedly drew water to wash the blood from his hands and shirt. It was said that he left a pan and towel beside this well while he went in search of Maren Hontvent and her dog.
This hand-dug well served the inhabitants of Smuttynose Island with fresh drinking and cooking water for several generations. Possibly in use sine the mid-1500's, the well became famous as the place where the convicted killer, Louis Wagner, supposedly drew water to wash the blood from his hands and shirt. It was said that he left a pan and towel beside this well while he went in search of Maren Hontvent and her dog.
Site # 8: SITE OF HONTVENT HOUSE
The red two-story cottage that stood on this site was burned in 1885, but the gruesome murders committed here will never be forgotten. On the moonlit cold wintry night of March 5, 3973, Anethe and Karen Christiensen were hacked to death with an axe, wielded, according to Maine court records, by Louis Wagner, an itinerant fisherman from Germany. Wagner had worked for the family and allegedly seeing the Smuttynose men in a Portsmouth bar that night, stole a dory belonging to Capt. Thomas Burke, a resident of Pickering Street. According to purely circumstantial evidence, Wagner rowed to the island in search of money he believed was hidden under the kitchen floor, and owed to him by the family for back wages. Coming ashore on the south beach of Smuttynose (through the ruined 1821 breakwater connecting it with Cedar Island), he plodded through the snow to the darkened house. Noticing an axe lying against the house, but intent only upon the money, he entered through the unlocked door, and crept into the kitchen. Suddenly Maren Hontvent's little dog Ringe started barking, and the voices of Anethe, Karen and Maren were heard upstairs. Coming down the stairs and apparently recognizing Wagner, the women commenced shouting for help. Remembering the axe outside the door, Wagner reached to grab it and silence the trio. At the trial, Maren testified that, clothed only in a nightdress, she escaped through the back entrance with Ringe, and ran to the far end of the island, cowering behind a large boulder. At first light "this poor retched creature", as Celia described her, "was heard pitifully crying for help. Men from other islands heard her in the still winter air, and shortly thereafter discovered the hacked bodies of Anethe and Karen. The bloody axe was found near the well, and it was noticed that the killer had consumed a meal at the kitchen table, attesting to the callousness of the murderer. This sordid case went to trial, and although many were not totally convinced, Louis Wagner was found guilty and became the last man hanged in the State of Maine, on July 25, 1875.
Site # 9: SPANISH SAILOR'S MARKER
This is the location reported to Maine authorities by Samuel Haley Jr., that he buried the bodies of Spanish sailors who crawled ashore from the 1813 wreck of the Conception, and marked their graves head and foot stones. For his services he received remuneration from the Town of Kittery. Several years ago archeologist Faith Harrington attempted to confirm the burial site, and was granted permission to do so by the State of Maine. Extensive trenching was unsuccessful in revealing any evidence of human remained, so one is left to draw his or her own conclusion.
THE BEACH:
THE BEACH upon which you disembarked, has welcomed seafaring men, women and children for nearly 400 years. The tales it could tell are as numerous as the pebbles beneath your feet, and the lives and memories of those who have stood here have risen and then vanished...even as the tide upon this beach rises and disappears twice a day.
The red two-story cottage that stood on this site was burned in 1885, but the gruesome murders committed here will never be forgotten. On the moonlit cold wintry night of March 5, 3973, Anethe and Karen Christiensen were hacked to death with an axe, wielded, according to Maine court records, by Louis Wagner, an itinerant fisherman from Germany. Wagner had worked for the family and allegedly seeing the Smuttynose men in a Portsmouth bar that night, stole a dory belonging to Capt. Thomas Burke, a resident of Pickering Street. According to purely circumstantial evidence, Wagner rowed to the island in search of money he believed was hidden under the kitchen floor, and owed to him by the family for back wages. Coming ashore on the south beach of Smuttynose (through the ruined 1821 breakwater connecting it with Cedar Island), he plodded through the snow to the darkened house. Noticing an axe lying against the house, but intent only upon the money, he entered through the unlocked door, and crept into the kitchen. Suddenly Maren Hontvent's little dog Ringe started barking, and the voices of Anethe, Karen and Maren were heard upstairs. Coming down the stairs and apparently recognizing Wagner, the women commenced shouting for help. Remembering the axe outside the door, Wagner reached to grab it and silence the trio. At the trial, Maren testified that, clothed only in a nightdress, she escaped through the back entrance with Ringe, and ran to the far end of the island, cowering behind a large boulder. At first light "this poor retched creature", as Celia described her, "was heard pitifully crying for help. Men from other islands heard her in the still winter air, and shortly thereafter discovered the hacked bodies of Anethe and Karen. The bloody axe was found near the well, and it was noticed that the killer had consumed a meal at the kitchen table, attesting to the callousness of the murderer. This sordid case went to trial, and although many were not totally convinced, Louis Wagner was found guilty and became the last man hanged in the State of Maine, on July 25, 1875.
Site # 9: SPANISH SAILOR'S MARKER
This is the location reported to Maine authorities by Samuel Haley Jr., that he buried the bodies of Spanish sailors who crawled ashore from the 1813 wreck of the Conception, and marked their graves head and foot stones. For his services he received remuneration from the Town of Kittery. Several years ago archeologist Faith Harrington attempted to confirm the burial site, and was granted permission to do so by the State of Maine. Extensive trenching was unsuccessful in revealing any evidence of human remained, so one is left to draw his or her own conclusion.
THE BEACH:
THE BEACH upon which you disembarked, has welcomed seafaring men, women and children for nearly 400 years. The tales it could tell are as numerous as the pebbles beneath your feet, and the lives and memories of those who have stood here have risen and then vanished...even as the tide upon this beach rises and disappears twice a day.
HALEY'S BREAKWATER:
Looking to the north, you will see the remains of HALEY'S BREAKWATER.
Captain Haley arrived at Smuttynose shortly before the American Revolution. Sometime around 1820, while gathering stones for a foundation, Capt. Haley turned over a large flat rock, and discovered several bars of solid silver (see site #17)...possibly pirate's treasure. With the $4000 he received from the assayer's office in Portsmouth, he built a breakwater between Smuttynose and Malaga, in addition to the long pier in the inner harbor. Capt. Haley soon became a leading figure at the Shoals, and was known as "King Haley", or "King Of The Islands". This may have been a misnomer, however, because his given name was Samuel King Haley. Shortly there after the old name of Smuttynose fell into disuse, in favor of the name Haley Island.
The breakwater was restored by the US Army Corps of Engineers on three occasions over the ensuing years, but was mostly destroyed and never rebuilt after the fierce coastal nor'easter in February 1978.
WAREHOUSE PIER:
In Haley's Cove, WAREHOUSE PIER supported a long warehouse and fish processing plant. Joining the warehouse were other wood buildings utilized in support of the prosperous fishing industry at the Shoals, Good size vessels could tie up at the end of the stone pier, with smaller ones able to get inside. The outside was not particularly suitable for that purpose, as it bared ledge at low water. Haley's warehouse was known locally as the "long house", and was removed from the pier in later years when the fishing industry diminished.
ROPE WALK:
During the mid to late 1600's, the permanent population of the Isles of Shoals numbered upwards of 600 persons, and during the fishing season, as many as 1500. A number of families lived on Smuttynose where a meetinghouse, courthouse, church, bowling alley and ordinary (tavern) had been constructed. The meetinghouse is said to have been built of brick, while the dwelling houses of the wealthier residents were comfortable and of good size. For several years prior to her death in 1699, Elinor Welcom(e) was the proprietor of a large licensed ordinary on the island. Her husband was constable on Star Island at the time. Elinor also owned fishing shallops, and probate records reveal that residents of the Isles of Shoals were among the most well-to-do of any of the colonies of the period. Along the ridge of the island, and shortly after the Stars and Stripes had replaced the cross of St. George, Capt. Haley built a ROPE WALK, about 270' in length. Its purpose was for the production and twisting of ships' lines. Also in approximately this location, the Haleys were instrumental in setting up a windmill, salt works, bakery, brewery, distillery, blacksmiths shop, coopers shop and a productive cherry orchard.
LOUIS WAGNER BEACH:
It may have been in this location that LOUIS WAGNER, on a cold night of March 5, 1873, beached the dory apparently stolen from a wharf in Portsmouth a few hours before. The breakwater was in poor repair, allowing him to row through the opening. Several hours later he allegedly left the island, rowed the seven miles back to Portsmouth, arriving at Newcastle just at dawn. Capt. Burke testified that his dory had been stolen that night and "used hard", since he had installed a new set of thole pins the day before, and "they were nearly worn through the next morning". Is this plausible? Could anyone have rowed that distance in that amount of time on a winter night? Perhaps the Piscataqua River was ebbing on his way out, and flooding as he was coming in. Did he calculate the tides? Questions still linger to this day, and no one so far has been able to prove or disprove the court's findings. What's your theory?
Looking to the north, you will see the remains of HALEY'S BREAKWATER.
Captain Haley arrived at Smuttynose shortly before the American Revolution. Sometime around 1820, while gathering stones for a foundation, Capt. Haley turned over a large flat rock, and discovered several bars of solid silver (see site #17)...possibly pirate's treasure. With the $4000 he received from the assayer's office in Portsmouth, he built a breakwater between Smuttynose and Malaga, in addition to the long pier in the inner harbor. Capt. Haley soon became a leading figure at the Shoals, and was known as "King Haley", or "King Of The Islands". This may have been a misnomer, however, because his given name was Samuel King Haley. Shortly there after the old name of Smuttynose fell into disuse, in favor of the name Haley Island.
The breakwater was restored by the US Army Corps of Engineers on three occasions over the ensuing years, but was mostly destroyed and never rebuilt after the fierce coastal nor'easter in February 1978.
WAREHOUSE PIER:
In Haley's Cove, WAREHOUSE PIER supported a long warehouse and fish processing plant. Joining the warehouse were other wood buildings utilized in support of the prosperous fishing industry at the Shoals, Good size vessels could tie up at the end of the stone pier, with smaller ones able to get inside. The outside was not particularly suitable for that purpose, as it bared ledge at low water. Haley's warehouse was known locally as the "long house", and was removed from the pier in later years when the fishing industry diminished.
ROPE WALK:
During the mid to late 1600's, the permanent population of the Isles of Shoals numbered upwards of 600 persons, and during the fishing season, as many as 1500. A number of families lived on Smuttynose where a meetinghouse, courthouse, church, bowling alley and ordinary (tavern) had been constructed. The meetinghouse is said to have been built of brick, while the dwelling houses of the wealthier residents were comfortable and of good size. For several years prior to her death in 1699, Elinor Welcom(e) was the proprietor of a large licensed ordinary on the island. Her husband was constable on Star Island at the time. Elinor also owned fishing shallops, and probate records reveal that residents of the Isles of Shoals were among the most well-to-do of any of the colonies of the period. Along the ridge of the island, and shortly after the Stars and Stripes had replaced the cross of St. George, Capt. Haley built a ROPE WALK, about 270' in length. Its purpose was for the production and twisting of ships' lines. Also in approximately this location, the Haleys were instrumental in setting up a windmill, salt works, bakery, brewery, distillery, blacksmiths shop, coopers shop and a productive cherry orchard.
LOUIS WAGNER BEACH:
It may have been in this location that LOUIS WAGNER, on a cold night of March 5, 1873, beached the dory apparently stolen from a wharf in Portsmouth a few hours before. The breakwater was in poor repair, allowing him to row through the opening. Several hours later he allegedly left the island, rowed the seven miles back to Portsmouth, arriving at Newcastle just at dawn. Capt. Burke testified that his dory had been stolen that night and "used hard", since he had installed a new set of thole pins the day before, and "they were nearly worn through the next morning". Is this plausible? Could anyone have rowed that distance in that amount of time on a winter night? Perhaps the Piscataqua River was ebbing on his way out, and flooding as he was coming in. Did he calculate the tides? Questions still linger to this day, and no one so far has been able to prove or disprove the court's findings. What's your theory?
